SPOT ON: Demystifying Adult Acne

The SKNDOCTOR is in the house, sharing all you need to know about adult acne and how to zap that zit.

Spots, greasy hair and heartbreaks are some of the annoying staples of teendom. While we would hope that by adulthood, there would be only blue skies and clear skin, unfortunately those pesky spots can resurface again. Post-adolescent acne or “adult acne” is defined as acne that appears from the age of 25 and up, with 12% of women in the UK, between 25 to 50 years old, suffering from it. 

The Basics

To really understand how to prevent and treat adult acne, it is important to get to grips with what it is in the first place. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the skin, specifically affecting the pilosebaceous unit (a fancy term for a hair follicle with an oil gland attached to it). These exist all over the face and body. 


Mild acne is characterised by blackheads, whiteheads and inflamed papules and pustules, while severe acne displays similar symptoms but in greater numbers, as well as cysts, large nodules and significant scarring. How these present themselves in adults can differ: some people experience a continuation of symptoms from adolescence into adulthood, while others get a break from their acne after their teens only to pop up again later, and then there are those who get their first spots only after the age of 25.

The Causes

While it might appear that some ladies are luckier than others when it comes to flawless skin, acne is mostly a result of a combination of underlying issues. Family history and fluctuating or disordered hormones are the most common causes of acne. Most notably, when testosterone is converted into oestrogen, the oil glands of the skin go into overdrive, changing the cells that line the skin’s hair follicles and creating the perfect environment for acne to flourish. Women with normal to high levels of these hormones can experience acne. 


However, there are other factors such as obesity, smoking, a high dairy diet and the use of steroids or comedogenic cosmetics - when mixed with the stress of living in modern society, they can exacerbate breakouts. 


The Cures

Dealing with acne at any age can be distressing but the good news is that there are a range of treatment options for all women: 

  1. Benzoyl peroxide creams and gels work as an effective over-the-counter anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory agent. Acnecide is an affordable benzoyl peroxide gel available in the UK. 
  2. Azelaic acid, salicylic acid and vitamin A (retinoids) are other lotions and potions with a good track record of tackling acne and scarring. La Roche Posay, Bioderma, Murad and The Ordinary are a selection of brands containing these ingredients. 
  3. Antibiotics can be an alternative approach to dealing with acne that is resistant to creams and gels. However, take caution when using these because there is a risk of side effects, such as diarrhoea and thrush. 
  4. The combined contraceptive pill has had a lot success in managing adult acne because oestrogens are known to reduce the levels of acne-causing testosterone, hence suppressing the skin’s oil production. 
  5. Isotretinoin (aka roaccutane) is a ‘big gun’ in the treatment of severe acne. This can only be prescribed by a dermatologist because, while it can lead to a complete remission of acne, there is a risk of hair loss and liver dysfunction. 


No matter how mild or severe your acne may be, if it is causing you any psychological stress and interfering with your everyday life, there is no harm in seeking early dermatological help to better understand the causes and remedies available to you. While addressing adult acne can feel embarrassing, the most important thing to remember is that you are not alone.


Photography credit Gabrielle Cooper @gabi_coops
Creative Direction Leanne Elliot Young @leanneelliotyoung

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